Car stuck at 4000 rpm

I purchased the vehicle about two months ago. It previously had a engine oil leak which was fixed by the dealer. Previous to my purchasing the Escape it developed a differential problem, but that is not the issue i am concerned about. The vehicle has been sitting for about 10 months. The vehicle starts without issues and idles smoothly. We did not drive it because of the differential issue but kept it in park and and slowly revved the engine.

The check engine light does not come on. The engine computer has a built in rev limiter built in to the programming that will not let the engine go above to rpms when the transmission is not in gear and driving down the street. This is a normal protection so you do not over rev the engine and damage it.

Q: While in park and stepping on the gas at rpm exactly the vehicles starts shaking. My car has miles. My car has an automatic transmission. Jay Safford Automotive Mechanic. Thank Jay. Was this answer helpful? Thank you for your feedback! Sorry about that. Why wasn't this information helpful? The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified. Please see our terms of service for more details.

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car stuck at 4000 rpm

What is the cost of changing engine in Cadillac Dts 4. My car is making a loud grinding noise when idle. I can hear clicking, but truck won't start. I hear a grinding noise when turning left by Austin T. Transmission shifter cables came off. Why after replacing the clutch does the clutch pedal have proper remission that only last a few weeks before the pedal tension is by Keith. Home Questions.

Year I don't know. What others are asking My car won't start but it's not the alternator or battery The problem sounds like a loose connection in the fuse box to battery cable connections. Check the cables for loose or corroded connections at battery clamps and ground connections on body and engine.

If problem continues then have a mechanic Read more.

car stuck at 4000 rpm

Air compressor Hello. As long as the belt is able to rotate I checked the Check Engine Light and the code P came on which relates to the throttle position sensor. How do I fix it?When starting the engine, it sounds like you have your foot pressed to the floor on the gas pedal as soon as you start it, without even having your foot on the gas.

Then it idles down, but then sometimes that idle is rough, or loping. If you request a diagnostic by a certified YourMechanic technician, he or she would first check to see if any Diagnostic Trouble Codes have been set.

If no codes were set, the technician would go through the referenced possibilities until the root cause of the high idle is found. Once the idle excursion is resolved, the rough running condition would be evaluated.

The causes of rough idle "slightly" overlap the problem areas cited above but there are lots of additional causes such as faulty fuel and ignition system components and, of course, mechanical problems such as uneven cylinder compression, burnt valves and so forth.

If you desire to set up a diagnostic to resolve both the high idle and rough running condition, please schedule with YourMechanic. Q: Car engine revs way up immediately upon starting engine. My car has miles.

car stuck at 4000 rpm

My car has an automatic transmission. Kevin Gainer Automotive Mechanic. Thank Kevin. Was this answer helpful? Thank you for your feedback! Sorry about that. Why wasn't this information helpful? Recommended Services. The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified. Please see our terms of service for more details. Related Questions.FAQ on Coronavirus and Mefi : check before posting, cite sources; how to block content by tags.

My car is running at RPM at 25 mph. What is going on? I drive a 98 Mitsubishi Eclipse. I was having what seemed like fuel line issues before now. After driving on the highway, the car would stall out at stops and need to be restarted, but would drive fine if speed was maintained. I found that turning the overdrive off kept this from occuring. Didn't really have the money to look into it, so I've been driving it this way, which was maybe a terrible idea in hindsight.

This morning while driving the car seized or sputtered, and afterward the car was hitting rpm's when i was only going 25 mph. It would go higher if I tried to accelerate past that.

A buddy suggested it may be an engine controller, and I've felt like there was a possible fuel line issue for a while, but I'm too ignorant to be sure. Any help would be very appreciated.

Try putting it in second, to force it out of first gear. Sounds like transmission fluid. Some automatics which from the overdrive reference is what you are driving go into a fail-safe mode when there is a problem with the transmission where it will not let you go out of first or second gear.

I am no mechanic, but i can see the logic. Its enough to get you to limp to a mechanic, but not enough to thrash the hell out of it. Bottom line is, you are going to have to get someone to look at it.

If it is the transmisison then be prepared to take a hit in the wallet. I have just this week had to write off a car that had pretty much exactly the same problem. So yeah. Some cars have a "limp home" mode where they run rich and limit you to second gear in an automatic. Do you have any check engine lights on?

But yeah, mechanic. Other possibilities are throttle body or mass airflow sensors, although that doesn't really explain the high revs. Here's a good synopsis of the "limp home" setting. Upon further investigation, it looks like you might have the Ultradrive transmission. If a mechanic confirms that the problem is with the transmission, it might be worth some digging to find out whether Chrysler will repair or replace it for you.

It is possible that the kickdown cable is stuck. This cable goes from the throttle to the transmission, and if it is stuck, the transmission will think that you are flooring the gas pedal and stay in lower gear longer. Have you tried accelerating closer to the redline and seeing if it will eventually shift into 2nd gear This would support the stuck kickdown cable theory.

Too much? There may be a dent in the transmission fluid pan which would functionally increase the amount of fluid creating different shift points. Honestly, if you can't get an error message from a code scanner Auto zone or Kragen will probably let you borrow one then you may need the attentions of a qualified mechanic.

Alternatively, you can call Car Talk! How can I quickly learn as much general knowledgeI have a '92 Toyota Paseo.

I drove it to school this morning and it was fine. But when I left I came across a problem. It idles just fine as far as I can tell, or at least as well as it always has. But once a load is imposed on the engine, the engine will tend to lay down, or stall. My money is also on the pump, but if you are feeling really lucky you could try replacing the fuel filter. But save up for that fuel pump.

YACT - Engine stuck at high RPM.

If you find that the fuel filter needs changing, you lucked out. After changing the fuel filter,you can check the fuel output under the hood. If that checks out o. Water in the fuel will freeze—most times right in the filter.

That might be the whole problem right there. Water in your fuel.

How to Stop Car Hesitation (Throttle Position Sensor)

If it starts and runs well in warmer weather, that would be my guess. The fuel pump, as others are suggesting, is a good idea. But many years ago I owned a motorcycle that suddenly had the same problem. It ran fine until about or so rpm, then it would try to die. Just like something was being cut off. I immediately pulled over to the side of the street and started looking. Then I lifted the seat to check things, since this was where the air intake was.

It had moved around and was blocking the intake enough so that the engine could not get enough air at higher rpms. Make the easy check, check your aircleaner and air intake system for blockages.So my car has decided to act up on me again.

I've already spent enough damn money on it so I figured I'd get the hive's opinion. The car: Impala,miles. The problem: The engine gets stuck at a certain RPM. Makes driving a challenege. It's enough that I can cruise along at without ever hitting the gas. It's not anything simple like throttle sticking or cable sticking. No other problems, i. The car doesn't have a tach so I don't know what the RPM is exactly, but from last time I think it was about mostly a wild guess, but it was high.

Potential causes? Any clues? Bad sensor, bad valve? I know jack shit when it comes to cars, and I don't trust the place I took it last time. The computer was replaced last time, and that fixed it for a while. The only thing I did today was fill up before heading home 66 mile commute. Is it setting any codes? Possible bad Throttle Positioning Sensor? Cruise control has remained off since last time it had this problem. Don't have a way to check the codes at the moment, but no lights are on.

I don't think any codes were set last time it had this problem either. Vacuum leak maybe? I'm not sure if that would change driveability at all, but when I've pulled vacuum hoses, it makes the engine idle pretty fast.

Not sure what "stuck at high RPM" means Had a similar problem on an Ex's car and it was an O2 sensor That could very well be, the check engine light has come on in the past, just not recently. Usually when it was cold out, or when the gas tank was low.

Might be the mass airflow sensor. Easy to change, but an expensive part. The sensor can be disconnected and the engine will run just fine, but not optimally.

Q: While in park and stepping on the gas at 4000 rpm exactly the vehicles starts shaking.

And no, it doesn't go back down after toggling the go pedal. I just went out and checked on and it's back to normal for now. It looks like there's an AutoZone about 20 miles away. Of course last time this happened the place I took it to said there were no codes. I'd prefer to take it somewhere else, since I'm really not trusting them at this point, but I also damn well expect them to fix it without charging anything else for labor.

But they didn't have any openings till possibly tomorrow, most likely Thursday, and I don't want to risk driving it to work and back tonight miles.My car will not exceed RPM in any gear. In first or any other gear gear I can drive up to RPM and then must shift into 2nd or the next gear if I want to go faster, if RPM goes above the car stops accelerating and the RPM drops to at which time the car starts to accelerate again.

The engine is running at a very high rate when I come to a stop as if the idle is set too high. The car does not lose electrical power when this happens. I can get around town with easily as long as I am staying in the to RPM range. This problem started late Saturday night when I was in Phoenix and had to get to the airport to pick up my daughter and then get back home to Prescott, AZ.

Since the dealers were all closed on Sunday I just went home at miles an hour all the way back to Prescott. It was a long drive but we enjoyed ourselves. The car ran fine except for the RPM problem. Please Advise…Thanks so much.

But…here goes with my first guesses:. If your catalytic converter is clogged, that would cause the engine to be unable to gain speed. Another possible cause might be a partially-clogged fuel filter or a weak fuel pump. If you post back with the missing information that I mentioned above, we might be able to be more helpful. Car will not rev over but u continue to drive it? I appreciate you your input and sorry for lacking info.

My car is a Kia Rio Cinco with 82, miles, 5 speed with self-adjusting clutch. All regular engine and transmission maintenance has been done on schedule. Everything else with the car is working well. I made sure that I was monitoring the systems as I was trying to figure out just what the symptoms where.

If it where a clogged catalytic converter or fuel filter would there not be some sputtering? There has been none, really not even a little bit.

A clogged fuel filter should cause some mis-firing but a clogged converter may not…If the car will coast along normally without any noticeable drag slowing it down dragging brakes then a restricted exhaust becomes more likely…have a shop put it up on a lift for a visual inspection and a simple exhaust back-pressure test…If this problem is constant, then any competent mechanic should be able to run it down quickly….

Since I have never experienced anything like this I was feeling pretty unsafe about taking to a mechanic about the problem because they could have told me anything and I would not have been able to spot a good lie.

To test for exhaust back pressure, the front oxygen sensor is removed its screwed into the exhaust pipe ahead of the converter, looks like a spark plug and the exhaust back-pressure measured at that point. Since the problem occurred suddenly and has all of the symptoms of a dropped vacuum line, allow me to suggest that you pop the hood and look for any free-hanging disconnected rubber line going toward the throttle body area or from the vacuum booster.By using our site, you acknowledge that you have read and understand our Cookie PolicyPrivacy Policyand our Terms of Service.

It only takes a minute to sign up. I don't get any error codes. I decided to drive it again today. I drove about a quarter mile and barely got to 20MPH. I turned around and pushed the gas pedal to the floor and car never made it above 25 MPH in about a quarter mile.

I parked the car and there were some strange smells. I am not sure how to describe them, at one point almost the burning rubber. I own a Pontiac Grand Prix. Last week it started accelerating very slowly when pushing on the gas. Going about 20 MPH I pushed the gas to the floor and almost nothing happened. The RPMs did not go above The RPMs also got a shaky and moved back a forth a bit.

After those 15 seconds it finally went above and got up to Once at 60 everything seemed normal, normal RPMs and no weird sounds.

Q: Car engine revs way up immediately upon starting engine.

The next thing I tried was in neutral. I pushed the gas down all the way and it went to about RPM. Could anyone give me advice on basic ways to troubleshoot this? I checked the transmission oil after letting my car warm up and it was low just under the whole OK marker.

I don't know if this would cause these symptoms, but was not sure what else to check. The only check engine light has been on for a long time and must have a bad sensor. I have a low engine coolant light, but I have checked it a few times and even added to it and it seems to be at the correct level.

It sounds like the catalytic converter might be plugged. If it has self destructed, it could be causing a blockage and not allowing your engine to exhaust the gasses as it should, thus not allowing the engine to rev as high as it normally should. You can test it by tapping it with a hammer not hard and listening to see if there is a rattling sound.

A muffler shop can diagnose this for you, as well as fix it if needed. Your engine management is in 'limp home mode'. You need an OBD2 scan to check for any fault codes, and recification carried out. If engine rev limiter is getting active within k RPM this means that engine is in limp mode. The problem of not getting speed may be due to this. This mode is there to make you reach nearest workshop with out damaging your car.

If it was catalytic converter then when you go back home after driving look below the car if it was blocked it would glow. If you have low coolant fill it and if it further reduces you have a leak. If you see white Smoke then this means that your engine coolant is getting mixed with engine system due to bad head gas-kit.

Sounds like a leaking head gasket or lower intake manifold gasket to me. Both are fairly common on the Grand Prix of your vintage. Engine sluggishness would be a symptom of incomplete combustion, since coolant is entering the cylinders.

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